Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has forever been a food lovers' paradise, with residents and travelers equally celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a prestigious group of world cities and igniting hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it becomes part of a global network of more than four hundred cities across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "stands as proof of its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and dynamic gastronomic culture," as noted by a spokesperson from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers internationally.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this venerable city is no surprise to its residents or avid food lovers. Many share the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, chaotic, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is finally in the limelight for what has perennially defined its soul: an immense devotion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a continued conversation from morning until night in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually evaluated by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and elevated to exquisite levels in their opulent kitchens.
These royal kitchens were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, merging Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was devised to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just showcases fresh harvests but also offers the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on every corner, there are small establishments and carts – hidden delights that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, served in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a unpretentious joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also offers remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The method of making it is scientific and demanding. The artisan beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however express concern that their younger generation are unwilling to learn the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is believed, will motivate more people around the world to explore these tales and travel to the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.
